How to Spot Quality Craftsmanship in Jewellery

When it comes to jewellery, quality craftsmanship is what sets a piece apart, transforming it from a mere accessory into a work of art. Whether you’re buying for yourself or searching for a special gift, understanding how to spot quality craftsmanship in jewellery is essential. Here are some key factors to consider that will help you identify well-made pieces.

1. Material Quality

The foundation of any piece of jewellery is the materials used in its creation. High-quality materials not only enhance the beauty of the jewellery but also contribute to its durability. When evaluating a piece, consider the following:

• Metals: Precious metals like gold, platinum, and silver are the standard for fine jewellery. Look for hallmarks that indicate the purity of the metal, such as “925” for sterling silver or “18k” for gold. These marks are typically stamped in discreet places, like the inner band of a ring.
• Gemstones: Genuine gemstones are a hallmark of quality jewellery. Examine the stones for uniformity in color, clarity, and cut. Well-cut gemstones reflect light evenly and have a brilliance that is hard to miss. Also, inquire about the sourcing of the stones to ensure they are ethically obtained.

2. Attention to Detail

Craftsmanship is often most evident in the details. High-quality jewellery is made with precision, and every aspect of the design is carefully executed. Here’s what to look for:

• Symmetry and Alignment: The design should be balanced and symmetrical unless it’s intentionally asymmetrical for artistic reasons. Stones should be aligned properly within their settings, and there should be no visible gaps between the stone and the metal.
• Smooth Finishes: The surfaces of the jewellery, whether polished or matte, should be smooth to the touch. There should be no rough edges, burrs, or visible solder marks, which are signs of poor craftsmanship.
• Intricate Work: For pieces with intricate designs, such as filigree or engraving, the detail should be crisp and clean. Intricate work requires a high level of skill, and quality pieces will showcase fine, well-defined patterns without any smudging or unevenness.

3. Secure Settings

The setting of gemstones is crucial in determining the overall quality of the jewellery. A secure setting not only protects the stone but also adds to the piece’s longevity.

• Prongs and Bezels: Check that prongs or bezels holding the gemstones are sturdy and evenly spaced. Loose or uneven prongs are a sign of poor craftsmanship and can result in the stone falling out over time.
• Channel Settings: In pieces like eternity bands, where stones are set in a channel, the stones should be flush with the metal and not appear loose. The metal should also be smooth, with no sharp edges that could catch on clothing or skin.

4. Weight and Balance

Quality jewellery often has a certain weight to it, which is an indicator of the density and quality of the materials used. Lightweight pieces may feel flimsy or insubstantial, which can be a red flag.

• Balance: Rings, earrings, and pendants should be well-balanced. For example, a ring should not spin on your finger, and earrings should not pull uncomfortably on your earlobes. Balance contributes to both comfort and durability.

5. Craftsmanship Marks

Many artisans leave a signature mark or brand stamp on their work, indicating authenticity and pride in their craftsmanship. This is often found on the back of a pendant, inside a ring, or on the clasp of a bracelet.

• Signature Stamps: Look for these marks as they can signify not just the brand but also the authenticity of the piece. This is particularly important for designer jewellery where craftsmanship is a key selling point.

Conclusion

Spotting quality craftsmanship in jewellery requires a discerning eye and a basic understanding of what to look for. By paying attention to material quality, attention to detail, secure settings, weight and balance, and craftsmanship marks, you can ensure that the jewellery you choose is not just beautiful but also built to last. Quality craftsmanship is what transforms jewellery into heirloom pieces that can be cherished for generations.